| Gray 
        Cowden Days and Hot Turku Nights | 
   
    |  | Andrew Goldie wiz @ Ra 
        Gemme |  | 
   
    | "Our Leader's Name is Nelly
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    | "Jist look at Davy's belly.... |  |  | 
   
    | "And Stewart's burd is Smelly... |  |  | 
   
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 The Gray Cowden Family!"  |  |  | 
   
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          More of whom, much, much later
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    | For the more distinguished readers (ie those over 50) let me firstly 
        say that this pre-season bash blows the old Highland tour of Cove, Buckie 
        and Dornoch out the water. You get back, and after a day or two in the 
        recovery room, you find yourself asking "Did it really happen?" Only until 
        Davy posted up the pictures did the terrible and sometimes ugly truth 
        reveal itself, and hopefully this short resume will make a little more 
        sense of the photies in the gallery. With people coming and going for 
        a short time, there was a different chemistry every couple of days and 
        occasionally the mixture was explosive.  Now Read On. | 
   
    | DavyAllan and m'sel' flew to Helsinki and found ourselves in Turku quite 
        by chance so we were settled in easily. Stewart, however, was off and 
        running by the Sunday morning having been enjoying the favours of a Helsinki 
        Floozie named Petra. Now, quite obviously I have no quarrel with anyone 
        with the name of a Blue Peter dog, but when it comes to gnawing on a bone? 
        More will be revealed later. Ugh.  |  | 
   
    | Having got on a coach to take us into the middle of a beautiful nowhere 
        (Hats Off to Vivien and Davy B!) - the No Fishin' notice had been hastily 
        replaced by "FC Boda This Way" - we denuded the local 
        petrol station of every fluid ounce of alcohol, we watched an experimental 
        (ie, not very good) Hearts side struggle to match the levels of enthusiasm 
        of both the opposition and the Hearts support. Cheerleader-in-chief was 
        Our Very Own Neil Mackay, and Edinburgh is quaking in its size-8s knowing 
        he will be back resident there shortly. After Hearts' opening goal he 
        expressed his approval by racing onto the pitch, shirtless but not beerless, 
        can in one hand, waving his shades around in the other. The programme 
        mentioned "Triallist", and I believe his case comes up next 
        week.  |  | 
   
    | However, he was outdone shortly after by Not Our Very Own Brian Smith, 
        whose encouragement of the shed-side linesman following the crippling 
        of Robbie Neilson in front of his and our eyes was as constructive as 
        it was crackpot. "LINESMAN!" he ran up to the man, but 
        stood never less than five yards away - no encroachment, no threatening 
        behaviour, you understand - |  | 
   
    | "GET IN THE ZONE! YOU'RE NOT IN THE ZONE, MAN! YOU 
      HAVE TO GET IN IT, YOU HAVE TO LIVE IT, LOVE IT, BREATHE IT, TOUCH IT! YOU'RE 
      NOWHERE NEAR THE ZONE! COME ON, LINESMAN, GET IN THE ZONE!" Five 
      minutes later, Brian sat down again. This was to prove something of a motif 
      for the entire week. | 
   
    | The referee - something of a cross between Hugh Dallas and Franz Beckenbauer 
        - was quite obviously the local scoutmaster (only one who fancied himself 
        more than his charges) and strutted around blowing his whistle for no 
        reason. Expect him to be tossing the coin the next time Hearts get into 
        the UEFA Cup. (Don't laugh.) Half-time entertainment was provided by the 
        World's Strongest Man (supposedly) lifting some (supposedly) serious weights. 
        The locals cheered but we weren't impressed. "That's nothing," 
        we said, "This time last year Steve Fulton attempted the world 
        pie-eating record at half-time. That was something to see."  |  | 
   
    | Meantime, the Heroes of Rainbow Hearts had 'taken' the home 
      terraces, much to the chagrin of various locals who voiced their concerns. "Sijoittunut nahty suuria hienoukia maali syntyi vapaapotkusta!" 
      one of the Hagar-lookalikes exploded.
 "Aye, well, that's easy for you to say," the Rainbows responded 
      with some spirit, and when Hearts scored the winner the argument was decided.
 
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    | No need to tell you that Finland was easy on the eye, and 
      no need to go into detail about exploits. However, we were most impressed 
      that a quick glance on the inside back page of Scott Rogers' passport showed 
      that he's the only man we know whose Name, Nationality and Profession can 
      be listed on one line. Equally, during the long evening after the Boda match, 
      Brian found himself in Another Zone Entirely with two middle-aged man-eating 
      good'ol' gals (who no doubt thought they were in the Twilight Zone). |  | 
   
    | Turns out he was just warming them up for Davy Allan and your correspondent, 
        as Room 427 in wir hotel was the hottest ticket in town that night.  Possibly. Possibly not. I don't really remember.  | 
   
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    |     The following afternoon found us sipping a restorative Belgian beer in 
        the Old Bank, one of the most civilised bars to be found in Western Europe, 
        and a scan of the local press showed the exposé of the year. The 
        picture didn't actually prove Stewart was wearing nothing beneath his 
        kilt, but a strategically-placed black disc ("The Black Hole of Calcutta") 
        inferred there was something there you really didn't want to know about. 
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    | As well as consuming Quite A Lot Of Drink, the food wasn't 
      too shabby and we decimated the local reindeer population at a restaurant 
      where some of the menu was actually on display. Choose your animal! Some 
      others later went off to a club where they did something similar. Or so 
      I heard. |  | 
   
    | The game against crack Finnish side VPS was prefixed by an 
      unrefreshed march to the stadium, so we thought perhaps mass hallucination 
      was affecting us all when we saw a man in a green t-shirt carrying a maroon 
      cross. Davy's digitally-enhanced picture proves this, so all we could suppose 
      was that some Hibs fan had come over early for their tour of the mosquito-ridden 
      forestland, carrying his burden. |  | 
   
    | The game itself wasn't up to much (what I saw of it, anyway) as we watched 
        a non-experimental (ie, not very good) Hearts side struggle to get to 
        know each other. It was quite easy to spot Mark DeFries - he was the injured 
        one trotting up and down the lines. He did a lot of that on this tour. 
        In the end, Hearts shared five goals with VPS, but they were more greedy 
        than us, simple as that. The local wildlife had turned out to bellow their 
        support for their team, and in a response to plummeting share values, 
        one of our number swapped his £45 Hearts top for a minging old VPS 
        dishtowel which will undoubtedly be worth a fortune on e-Bay in a hundred 
        years' time.  |  | 
   
    | Meantime, Stewart was investing in a little foreign exchange of his own 
        just as the Hearts players were getting on their coach to a mystifyingly 
        enthusiastic response from all of us considering they'd just been beat. 
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    | Mike Rogers presented Antti Niemi with a jersey with the number of goals 
        Hearts will concede this season on the back and while we repaired to the 
        bar, some Hearts players went back to the repair shop - or McDonald's 
        as it's better-known. We have eye-witnesses' who will swear on oath that 
        a well-known Scottish Internationalist fixed himself with 3 cheeseburgers, 
        6 chicken nuggets, one fries and two ice-creams. None of this poncey pasta 
        diet nonsense, eh? I mean, what the hell are they - professional athletes? 
        Naaaah! |  | 
   
    | The Open Golf Tournament started at Muirfield on the Thursday, so in 
        its honour we had a drink-induced shot at the crazy golf course in a beer 
        garden close by. If anyone remembers the Japanese bloke after whom the 
        Road Hole Bunker was renamed The Sands of Nakajima in 1978, the 8th hole 
        will keep Davy Allan awake at night for years to come. Drive up the slope, 
        but gently enough for it not to go round the topmost curve and slowly 
        return to the tee.  |  | 
   
    | Got that, Davy? Ten shots later
 Oh well, he got his money's worth, 
        put it that way. Then to the football game, which wisely someone had arranged 
        a minibus to - we'd walked far enough playing golf.  |  | 
   
    | The little beer enclosures were proving unsurprisingly popular 
      in view of the fact that Hearts kept giving away two-goal starts, but old 
      habits die hard and I joined the cognoscenti in the Centre Stand. It was 
      to my surprise, then, when a young Finnish journalist asked us a load of 
      interested questions at half-time. You can't believe everything you read 
      in the papers, because I'm quoted as saying "Suomeen meidat toi 
      tietenkin Hearts. Olemme kai tarpeeksi tyhmia lahteakseeme seuraamaan joukkeueen 
      harjoitusotteluita" - which is pretty damn' impressive, 'cause 
      I can't speak a word of Finnish. |  | 
   
    | They also quoted Davy Brunton, and the estimable Ian McKintosh 
      (who'd jetted in from Jamaica, Top Man) and one "Gray Cowden" 
      - obviously Finnish for Gary Cowen, though after the measured debate/punch-up 
      with Davy Allan concerning Grecian 2000 the day before, it seemed suspiciously 
      coincident. |  | 
   
    |   A few memories to share and treasure: the beauty that was the Old Bank, 
        Turku Cathedral on the river, the beer (natch), the women (natch), and 
        Scott phoning us up on the Friday morning from Helsinki Airport to tell 
        us he'd left his passport in the fridge of his hotel room. Having delivered 
        it to him, Davy and m'sel' decided to hop on the next available plane 
        home rather than have an extra couple of days on the lash. Man, we needed 
        it. I'm off to McDonald's to refuel - anyone fancy it? | 
   
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